Yes — ours is load-rated to 11 lb (5 kg), and that number comes from real hardware, not hope. The basket is solid SUS304 stainless steel, drilled and screwed into the wall with the included anchors, so the weight sits on screws instead of glue. Adhesive caddies ruined our tile the day they let go, which is exactly why we built this one the slow, boring, reliable way.
can i install a screwed-in shower caddy in a rental without wrecking the bathroom?
Short answer: you'll put small anchor holes in the tile, so ask your landlord first — but the install itself is simple and the caddy comes with the hardware. Here's how I walk people through it:
- Pick the spot with a level. Mark the bracket holes with a pencil, keeping the basket low enough that pump bottles clear the showerhead and high enough that a loofah doesn't sit in splash.
- Check for pipes and studs before drilling. A cheap stud finder saves you an expensive mistake; avoid drilling directly above fixtures where supply lines usually run.
- Drill the anchor holes, tap in the included anchors, and screw the bracket down firmly. No adhesive, no curing time, no waiting 24 hours while your shampoo sits on the floor.
- Hang the basket and load it. The open wire mesh drains instead of pooling water, so no mildew collects in the corners.
- On move-out day, patch the anchor holes with tile-safe filler. Four small holes are a far easier conversation than a shelf-shaped scar where an adhesive strip pulled the glaze off.
One honest note: if your lease forbids any drilling at all, this isn't the caddy for you. I'd rather tell you that now than sell you something you'll have to remove.
screwed-in stainless caddy or adhesive caddy — which one should you get?
It depends on your wall and your patience, and I'll be straight about both.
An adhesive caddy wins if you truly cannot drill — a dorm, a strict rental, a fiberglass surround you don't want to touch. The tradeoff is load and lifespan: most rely on glue and plastic, and when they let go they tend to take surface material with them.
Our drilled caddy wins if you want the shelf to stay put. Fully welded joints, zero plastic load-bearing parts, and 11 lb of rated capacity mean pump bottles, soap, and a loofah sit there without bending. Real 304 stainless resists rust in a wet shower in a way coated steel doesn't. Three finishes — Brushed Stainless, Matte Black, Gunmetal Grey — let you match your fixtures instead of introducing a fourth metal to the room.
If you're already drilling for this one, the corner caddy pairs with it for a full shower setup and uses the same approach: real anchors, real steel, no glue.
Quick takeaways
- The caddy is load-rated to 11 lb (5 kg) and mounts with included anchors and screws — no adhesive.
- Open wire mesh drains water instead of pooling it, which is what keeps corners from growing mildew.
- Drilling is required; if your lease bans holes, choose an adhesive option and accept the lower load limit.
Q: can wall-mounted shower caddies hold 11 lb?
A: Ours can — it's rated to 11 lb (5 kg) and screwed into the wall with included anchors, so the load rides on hardware rather than glue. Solid SUS304 stainless with fully welded joints and no plastic load-bearing parts.
Q: can i install a screwed-in shower caddy in a rental without wrecking the bathroom?
A: You'll make small anchor holes in the tile, so clear it with your landlord first. The install is just marking, drilling, tapping in the included anchors, and screwing the bracket down — then patch the holes at move-out.
Q: screwed-in stainless caddy or adhesive caddy — which one should you get?
A: Choose adhesive only if drilling is truly impossible, and expect a lower load limit and possible surface damage when it fails. Choose the drilled SUS304 caddy if you want 11 lb of capacity, rust-resistant steel, and a shelf that stays where you put it.